Kintamani (Bali)

Kintamani, in the highlands of Bali around Mount Batur, grows arabica with a twist of orange. Its farmers often plant coffee among citrus trees and vegetables, work in traditional Subak Abian groups, and use organic fertiliser. In 2008 their coffee became Indonesia’s first geographical indication, and Bali still picks it in a single harvest each year.

The short version

• Citrusy arabica, with chocolate and brown sugar, and a medium body.
• Grown among orange trees, around Mount Batur at about 900–1,000 m.
• Subak Abian: farmers’ groups rooted in Bali’s Hindu philosophy.
• Indonesia’s first geographical indication, 5 December 2008.
• One harvest, about July to September.

What does Kintamani coffee taste like?

Citrusy. Wayan Sukadana Yasa, head of the Langit Bali arabica farmers’ group, told Investortrust that the coffee is citrusy, with hints of chocolate, caramel or brown sugar, a medium body, little bitterness and an orange-like acidity. He puts the orange down to the orange trees and vegetables grown in the same gardens. Kompas reports that cuppers found the same orange flavour in Kintamani coffee year after year, from 2003 to 2007, before it was registered. Indonesia’s tourism site also describes a distinctive citrus aroma and fresh fruit flavours. Most Bali coffee is wet processed, Wikipedia says, giving a sweet, soft cup with lemon and other citrus notes.

Where is it grown?

In the highland of Kintamani, in Bangli regency, near Mount Batur, at about 900–1,000 metres, according to Investortrust. Wikipedia places Bali’s main coffee area between the volcanoes Batukaru and Agung. Kompas says the protected coffee also grows in Badung (Petang) and Buleleng (Sukasada and Sawan).

How much is grown is less clear, and the figures conflict:

Claim	Source
14,000 ha, farmed by 4,000 families	Kompas, 2018
The protected area was about 14,000 ha at first; perhaps 7,000 now, and at most 4,000	A coffee community figure quoted by Mongabay, 2016

Both reports describe the same pressure: farmers switching coffee land to oranges when citrus paid better. One farmer told Kompas that in 1980 he had to turn half his coffee into an orange grove; by 2018, he said, coffee earned him far more.

What is Subak Abian?

Bali’s traditional farmers’ organisation for dry-land crops. Many Kintamani growers belong to a Subak Abian, which Wikipedia says is based on the Hindu philosophy of Tri Hita Karana: happiness comes from good relations with God, with other people and with the environment. That leans towards organic farming, and because the Subak groups organise smallholders, it suits fair-trade certification. Farmers interviewed by Investortrust describe using the subak system, organic fertiliser and no pesticides.

When is it harvested?

Once a year, typically around July to September, Wikipedia says, unlike parts of Sumatra, which pick more than once.

Kintamani’s protected name

Kopi Arabika Kintamani Bali was registered on 5 December 2008, Wikipedia’s list shows, making it the first geographical indication of any kind in Indonesia. Kompas notes that Subak Abian groups were among those who applied for it.

Kintamani and other Indonesian origins

• Coffee in Indonesia: the whole country, its harvests and its history.
• Java: the island that gave coffee its nickname.
• Gayo: Aceh’s highland arabica.